Archerotor Antenna Rotator (150-1225B) was the TDP2, which was made by Antenna Craft. It was imported and OEM supplied by Antenna Craft to Radio Shack.

This page contains a brief description of the Archerotor Antenna Rotator. It also contains a Instruction Manual. The description is written by me, but the instructions are from Radio Shack. The instructions were obtained as simple text files through their Faxback system. I just reformatted them for easier reading.

Description

Antenna Rotator System Block Diagram
Rotator
Control
Unit
Rotator
Drive
Unit
3-Conductor
Cable
120 VAC, 60 Hz
Antenna
Mast

The overall rotator system consists of a Rotator Control Unit, Rotator Drive Unit, and a length of 3-conductor, #20 AWG, cable. The Rotator Control unit is powered by 120 Volt, 60 Hz, AC power and is intended to reside in your house. The Rotator Drive Unit is powered from the Rotator Control Unit via the 3-conductor, #20 AWG, cable. It is intended to be mounted on a antenna mast.

Click for full size image

The Rotator Control Unit contains a transformer, with two 18 Volt secondary windings, a 130µF/30VAC capacitor, and a 4-pole, 18vac, motor. One of the secondary windings is used to power the split-phase motor in the Rotator Control Unit. The other winding powers the split-phase motor in the Rotator Drive Unit. In the Rotator Control Unit, the motor is geared down and drives the direction indicator disk at 1 RPM. The direction indicator disk contains the switches that determine the direction of rotation for the motor in the Rotator Control Unit and the Rotator Drive Unit.

Physical Diagram
BLK
BLK
BRN
RED
YEL
3-OR
2-BL
1-BR
Capacitor
130 µF/30VAC

The Rotator Drive Unit contains a split-phase motor and gear reduction, that is identical to the Rotator Control Unit. This then directly drives the antenna mast. Because split-phase motor and gear reduction is identical in both units, the direction indicator disk in the Rotator Control Unit and the Rotator Drive Unit would turn in unison. Or, as it is referred to in the Instruction Manual, "Synchronized". The two units do get out of sync after a while and require re-syncing, as described in the Synchronizing and Testing section below.

The motors are operated by contacts, S1 and S2, that are mounted on the direction indicator disk. These switches are operated by a plastic cam that rides on the inside of the direction dial. The direction dial has a detent. When the switch cam rests in the detent, S1 and S2 are open and the motors are at rest. When the direction dial is moved so that the cam is not longer in the detent, the motors activate and start turning the direction indicator disk and the motor in the Rotator Drive Unit. S2 applies power to the motors and S1 determines the direction.

Observations

When I removed the top cover, two nylon (?) guides, on opposing sides of the Direction Dial, were visible. The guides were mostly triangular and held the Direction Dial in place. But the guides didn't look correct. Each of the guides were held in by two plastic tabs and a wood screw, with a beveled head. And, the screws only loosly held the guides in place because the screw hole was too big. The only thing that kept the screws in place was the fact that the hole in the guide and the mount were misalligned. So the screw kind of went in at an angle. But that was sufficient to hold the guides in place.

When I removed the guides, one of them has a small piece of rubber glued to the bottom. The Direction Dial's rim was held in contact with the bottom of the guides. The other guide appeared to have nothing glued to it. But during my observation, the opened Rotator Control Unit fell off the desk onto the carpet. It wasn't a big drop but the motor fell out. Nothing was damaged but, along with the motor, another piece rubber with glue fell out. This was the missing part from the other guide. This was a good find because the Direction Dial wasn't operating correctly. The Direction Pointer, which is under the Direction Dial, would stop erratically or not move right. Re-gluing the rubber glide fixed everything.

But, of course, this setup with the wood screws and rubber glides was not original. Someone else was mucking around inside before me. This was further confirmed when I looked up the writing on the piece of rubber. In my unit the rubber was blue and had "Asparagus" written on it, followed by a "#" and a number. Most of the number was cut off. A quick search and aparently there are blue rubber bands made with a vegetable's name on it. These are meant for the packaging industry, so they are common in any home. In fact, I use to collect the blue bands on my celery.

With the pieces of rubber band glued in place, the unit seemed to work nicely. I haven't actually performed the modification below. But if it wasn't working properly, I would have.

Modifications

Switch Modification Diagram
S1
Direction
CW
CCW
Secondary
Common
S2
Power
120 VAC
Transformer
Primary
S3
CW Inter
Motor CW
Windings
S4
CCW Inter
Motor CCW
Windings

This arrangement works fine when the unit is new. However, over time the plastic pieces will wear down and the unit might not operate reliably. So I looked into a couple of modifications. To replace the control switches, a simple DPDT, center off, switch could be installed. It's important that the switch be spring loaded to the center off position. That way, when you release the switch, the motors will stop.

Another modification might be to add limit switches to the direction indicator dial. This would take two microswitches. One to interrupt the ClockWise (CW) rotation and the other to interrupt the Counter ClockWise (CCW) rotation. The switches would be electrically installed in-line with the direction switch so that, the CW microswitch would interrupt the CW toggle switch and the CCW microswitch would interrupt the CCW toggle switch. Physically, the microswitches need to be mounted so that the rotating indicator disk, triggers the switches at each end of it's rotation.

Of course, either one of these modifications means that, the switch contacts mounted on the direction disk will need to be disabled. This can be done by:

  • Unsoldering the common wires on S1 and S2. Then put a piece of shrink tubing on the exposed wire ends for protection.
  • You could simply place some thin strips of cardboard into the switches to prevent the contacts from touching. If you do it that way, use some glue to keep the strips in place. Use only enough glue to allow the strips to be removed in the future.
  • Also, the plastic cam element can easily be removed from the direction disk. This will disable the switches, but you might want to place some tubing over the center contact for S1 and one of the S2 contacts.


(150-1225B) Archerotor Antenna Rotator Instruction Manual Faxback Doc. # 46240

Introduction

Your Archerotor lets you turn and accurately position even the largest TV antennas from inside your home. This ensures the best possible TV reception. When you turn the control's dial for the desired direction, the drive motor turns the antenna. When the antenna reaches the desired direction, the motor automatically turns off.

Important Note: For your safety, read "Important Safeguards" and all safety, installation, and operating instructions supplied with your antenna. Keep this manual for your future reference.

Preliminary Testing

Before you install the Archerotor, do the following:

In your home, temporarily connect the drive to the control. See "Wiring the Drive Motor" and "Wiring the Control" in Faxback Doc. # 46241.

Test the Archerotor as described under "Synchronizing and Testing" in Faxback Doc. # 46241.

(br/SM 2/2/98)


(150-1225B) Archerotor Antenna Rotator Instruction Manual Continued Faxback Doc. # 46241

Installation

Use 20 gauge three wire rotator cable, such as RadioShack Cat. No. 15-1149 or 15-1150, to connect the drive to the control.

Wiring the Drive Motor

Follow these steps to wire the drive motor.

  1. Snap open the drive's cover using a coin or screwdriver.
  2. Remove the grommet and insert the rotator cable through the grommet's slot.
  3. Separate the cable's three wires about 1-1/2 inches down the cable and strip off about 1/2 inch of insulation from each wire.
  4. Connect the wide wire to Terminal 1, connect the center wire to Terminal 2, and connect the third wire to Terminal 3.
    CAUTION: Be sure there are no loose strands of wire that can short between terminals.
  5. Recheck the wiring order and press the grommet back into the housing.
  6. Close the cover securely.

Wiring the Control

Follow these steps to wire the control.

  1. On the other end of the rotator cable, separate the wires about 1-1/2 inches down the cable and strip about 1/2 inch of insulation from each wire.
  2. Run the cable through the strain relief slot on the bottom of the control and connect the wires as follows:
    Connect the wide wire to Terminal 1, connect the center wire to Terminal 2, and connect the third wire to Terminal 3.
  3. Recheck the wiring order and tighten all the terminal screws.
    CAUTION: Be sure there are no loose strands of wire that could short between terminals.
    WARNING: To reduce the risk of electric shock, do not remove cover. No user-serviceable parts inside. Refer servicing to qualified service personnel.

Synchronizing and Testing

Follow these steps to synchronize and test the Archerotor

  1. After you wire the drive and control, plug the control's power cord into a standard AC outlet (120 volts, 60 Hz).
  2. Turn the control's dial fully clockwise. The indicator dot on the control's disc moves clockwise and you can hear the control's motor.
    When the antenna reaches the end of rotation, the dot stops and the control turns off.
  3. Turn the control's dial fully counterclockwise. When the dot stops and the control turns off, the control and drive are synchronized.
  4. Turn the control's dial to S (south) to align the two arrows on the drive.
  5. Disconnect the rotator cable from the control so that you can mount the drive.

Mounting the Drive

You can mount the drive on a support mast 1-1/4 inch to 2 inches in diameter. If the mast is over 5 feet long, we recommend that you use guy wires to secure the mast.

WARNING: Select a mounting location where the antenna cannot come in contact with lower lines while you install it, and where the installation cannot fall across power lines if a guy wire should fall.

  1. Loosen the support mast clamp nuts enough to fit the clamps over the mast.
  2. Lower the drive onto the mast until the cast nose of the drives housing sits on top of the mast.
  3. Use a 7/16-inch wrench to tighten the clamps' nuts.
    CAUTION: Overtightening can deform and weaken the mast.
  4. If you use guy wires to secure the mast, guide the wires through the two holes of the lower clamp.

Antenna Mast

Before you mount the antenna, cut the antenna mast using the following guidelines. If the antenna boom is:

  • Up to 5 feet long, the mast length should not exceed 5 feet.
  • Up to 8 feet long, the mast length should not exceed 3 feet.
  • Over 8 feet long, the mast length should not exceed 2 feet.
  • Over 8 feet long with braces, cut the antenna mast 12 inches below the point where you attach the braces to the mast.
If you mount two antennas to the mast, the mast length should not exceed 4 feet. Mount the small antenna on top of the mast and the larger antenna 12 inches from the bottom of the mast.

Mounting the Antenna

Follow these steps to mount the antenna:

  1. Loosen the clamps on the drive's antenna mast support enough to accept the mast.
  2. Insert the antenna mast between the clamps. Then rotate the antenna mast until the antenna points south, and tighten the clamp nuts.
    CAUTION: Overtightening can deform and weaken the mast.
    Note: When most desired stations are north, point the antenna north. If you do this, remember that the antenna points in the opposite direction from that indicated on the control. Use the direction markers as described under "Channel and Direction Markers."
  3. Attach the antenna cable to the antenna.

Routing the Cables

If you have 75 Ohm coaxial antenna cable, tape the cable directly to the support mast.

If you have 300-Ohm twin-lead antenna cable, attach it to the antenna and support mast using stand-off insulators (not included) about every 4 feet. Twist the cable about four times between each insulator.

For either type of antenna cable, provide a generous loop at the drive to allow full rotation of the antenna.

Tape the rotator cable directly to the support mast.

Route the antenna cable and rotator cable to the location of your TV and Archerotor control. Then, connect the antenna cable to your TV and connect the rotator cable to the control. See "Wiring the Control."

Channel and Direction Markers

Use the provided channel markers to mark the control with the desired antenna position for each channel. Use the direction markers to re-label the direction indicators on the control (if you pointed your antenna north instead of south). Place each direction marker over the control's direction indicator that represents the opposite direction.

(br/GLW 2/02/98)


(150-1225B) Archerotor Antenna Rotator Instruction Manual Continued Faxback Doc. # 46241

Operation

To rotate the antenna, turn the control's dial for the desired direction. While the antenna rotates, the indicator dot moves, indicating the direction of antenna rotation. When the antenna reaches the selected direction, it stops.

CAUTION: Do not force the control's dial fully clockwise past N or fully counterclockwise past N. Doing so might damage the control.

Repositioning Your Antenna

If a TV channel's reception gets worse after you place the channel marker for a channel, heavy winds might have moved the antenna. If this happens, reposition the antenna so that it points in the proper direction and tighten all clamps on the drive.

(br/SM 2/02/98)


(150-1225B)Faxback Doc. # 20990

Archerotor Antenna Rotator Parts List

To order parts call 1-800-843-7422 or visit your local RadioShack store (This list was generated on 07/08/2005).

Ref #Cat.No.DescriptionNP Part #
1210578482CAP 130UF 2% 40VACCF3001
3810660850GROMMET,FOR DRIVE HOUSINGHC0178
9410676401PAD, DISCHC3388
9810676427LID, MOTORHC3390
9510677755INDICATOR,DISCHC3758
9910677789FASTENER KITHC3761
10707479LABEL,CHANNEL MARKERHM0347
3710713568HARDWARE KIT,FASTNERHW1501225
10713568RT3301 FOR MAST HARDWAREHW1501225
3610731982TERMINAL BOARD ASSYJ4694
12310766384KNOB ASSY,FOR CONTROLK2657
9710804375MOTOR,ANTENNA ROTATORM4807
10804375M4807
510811388MOTOR,BASEMD0265
10820264MANUAL,SERVICE 15-1225BMS1501225B
10841518MANUAL,USERS 15-1225BMU1501225B
911006137GEAR,FIRST BASE ASSEMBLYRA2848
1011006145GEAR,SECOND BASE ASSEMBLYRA2849
1111006152GEAR,THIRD BASE ASSEMBLYRA2850
Ref #Cat.No.DescriptionNP Part #
3211006160GEAR,FIRST MAST ASSEMBLYRA2851
3311006178GEAR,SECOND MAST ASSEMBLYRA2852
3411006186GEAR,THIRD MAST ASSEMBLYRA2853
9611035706PLATE/SWITCH ASSEMBLYRJ0334
2611050994KIT, ACCESSORYRT3301
11050994THREADED POSTS (4)RT3301
2811051000COVER,BASE DRIVE 2=1 PARTRT3302
2911051018UMBRELLA,FOR BEARING RINGRT3303
3011051026 RING, BEARINGRT3304
3511051034PLATE ASSY,MAINRT3305
411097698TRANSFORMER 110V CONTROLTA0854
3-COND 100FT 15-1150W0000X
12011197704BASE ASSEMBLY,110 VOLTSZ4161
11197704CONTROLZ4161
12211197712COVER ASSY,CONTROLZ4162
3111197720 MAST ASSY,DRIVEZ4163
11198264CONTROL BOX,COMPLETEZ4228
8511211497HOUSING,DRIVEZ5816
11226347LOWER CLAMP, HIGH CLAMPZ8486

(150-1225)Faxback Doc. # 20902

Archerotor Antenna Rotator

Antenna Rotator Wiring Diagram
CONTROL
DRIVE
Output Voltage = 18 VAC per winding
Transformer
120V:18V:18V
18V
18V
J1
120VAC
S2
Power
S1
Direction
CW
CCW
C1
130uF/30VAC
M1
4 Ω
Each Coil
3
2
1
TS1
Control
Proper AC Voltages
Terminal 1 to Terminal 2 - 27 to 30 Volts
Terminal 1 to Terminal 3 - 16 to 19 Volts
Terminal 2 to Terminal 3 - 16 to 19 Volts
Note - Control must be running to check voltages
M2
4 Ω
Each Coil
3
2
1
TS2
Drive
3-Conductor
Cable

Troubleshooting

  1. Control Smells and Feels Hot - Unplug Power Cord Immediately.
    1. Flow thru ventilation blocked on underside of control.
    2. Short between two or more conductors of cable or at the terminals of drive or control.
    3. Improperly connected cable. Check wiring order.
    4. Shorted wiring inside control.
    5. Defective motor in control.
    6. Jammed or disengaged gears in control.
    7. Defective switch. Short circuited, will not shut-off.
  2. Control Operative - Drive Will Not Run.
    1. Check voltage at control terminals with cable disconnected. If proper, cable or drive unit is defective (proceed to step 2). If voltage is improper, control is defective.
      1. Defective solder joint or broken wire in control.
      2. Defective transformer. Open secondary winding.
    2. Reconnect cable to control and check voltage at drive terminal board. If improper, cable is defective. If proper, drive is defective.
      1. Bald solder joint at drive terminal board or broken motor lead..
      2. Jammed or disengaged gear, except when against end-of-rotation stop. There should be slight free rotation (backlash) at end step in the gear train.
      3. Damaged gears. Broken or distorted gear teeth.
      4. Damaged housing or bearing ring. If drive operates properly with the housing remove either of these parts could be bad.
      5. Defective motor. Open winding or mechanically jammed.
  3. Indicator Disk of Control Does Not Turn - Drive Operative.
    1. Gear train in control jammed or disengaged.
    2. Defective motor in control. Open winding or mechanically jammed
    3. Bad solder joint or broken lead to motor in control.
    4. Defective transformer. Open secondary winding.
    5. Defective switch cover. Rotating disk loose.
  1. Both Drive and Control Inoperative.
    1. Defective switch in control. Open contacts.
    2. Bad solder joint or broken wire in control.
    3. Defective transformer. Open primary winding.
    4. Defective capacitor or broken lead.
    5. Shorted or miswired cable. Control works if dis-connected..
  2. Control Disk Rotates Intermittently.
    1. Defective switch. Not making good contact.
    2. Bad solder joint or broken wire in control.
  3. Drive Coasts after Control Shuts Off.
    1. Defective motor in drive. Brake not holding.
    2. Improper idler arm adjustment. Mesh with first gear too tight.
  4. Oscillating Indicator Disk - Runs Past Knob Setting and Reverses Direction.
    1. Defective motor in control. Brake not holding.
    2. Mesh between motor pinion and first gear is too tight.
  5. Traveling Knob - Knob Travels with Indicator Disk.
    1. Screws on underside on control are loose.
    2. Missing or damaged knob suspension springs.
    3. Missing, worn or oily friction disks in knob.
    4. Damaged or excessively tight switch.
    5. Damaged cam groove in knob. Jams pin of switch slide.
  6. Runs in One Direction Only - Knob Will Rotate in Both Directions.
    1. Defective switch. Damage or gapped contacts.
    2. Bad solder joint or broken wire at switch or terminals.
  7. Runs One Direction Only - Knob Will Rotate in One Direction Only.
    1. Wire jammed between sliding blade and contact in switch.
  8. Control Operates Slow with Cable Connected - Correct Speed with Cable Disconnected.
    1. Improperly wired cable at either terminal board.
    2. Short in cable or at either terminal board.