This is a Google translation of the user manual for a antenna amplifier kit that was purchased by me while I was in Germany from 1980 to 1984. And, yes, I do know that this circuit does not actually amplify an antenna. It amplifies the signals captured by the antenna, which are available at the feed point. Sometimes the translation doesn't convert to good English. I have fixed it where I feel that it is appropriate.
Quality Kit - UHF - VHF - UKW Antenna Amplifier |
| Use: |
|---|
| Amplification of the Antennas for 25 to 950 MHz |
| TV Reception Channels 2 - 65 |
| FM Radio Reception from 84.6 to 135 MHz |
| Radio Reception from 25 MHz |
| Technical Specifications: |
|---|
| Operating Voltage: 6 - 12 V |
| Power Consumption: 5 mA |
| Gain: Up to 21 dB |
| Input: 60/75 Ω |
| Output: 60/75 Ω |
Construction plan:
The printed circuit board has a component print on the upper side, please insert the component according to the item list and assembly plan into the circuit board.
Make sure that the resistors, capacitors, electrolytic capacitors and diodes are as close as possible to the circuit board.
Pay attention to the correct polarity of the components!
Then the protruding wire ends on the copper side of the circuit board are bent a little to the side and trimmed with a small side cutter, so that only approx. 2 - 3 mm from the component lugs are left or protrude. Now the soldering process follows, which at the same time covers the cut parts of the component leg with protective tin.
The most common method, however, is to first solder the wire ends and then pinch them off over the soldering point afterwards. When soldering, it is important that only electronic soldering tin is used;
Under no circumstances use solder grease! We recommend a 16 to 25 watt electronic soldering iron. The soldering tip must be clean and well tinned. Integrated circuits, transistors and diodes often do not like excessive heat. It is advisable to explore these components quickly.
Avoid plumbing for too long on a steep slope so that the circuit board and the component are not damaged by the heat that then arises.
Please check all the pilot points again before starting up the circuit, as well as the components for correct polarity short circuits due to connections between the conductors are hardly possible thanks to the solder mask, but a junction check is still advisable.
Be careful with circuits that are operated with mains voltage! Please be sure to observe the VDE regulations! If the circuit is to be installed in a metal house, it must be earthed or provided with a protective conductor.
Your specialist dealer will be happy to answer any specific questions you may have. No liability is accepted for consequential damage.
| Parts List: | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| B 60116 | Printed Circuit Board | C7 | Ceramic Disk Capacitor 1 nF |
| R1 | Resistor 1K Ω - Brown, Black, Red | C8 | Ceramic Disk Capacitor 120 pF |
| R2 | Resistor 100K Ω - Brown, Black, Yellow | C9 | Ceramic Disk Capacitor 1 nF |
| R3 | Resistor 220 Ω - Red, Red, Brown | Ceramic tube capacitors can also be used. | |
| R4 | Resistor 220 Ω - Red, Red, Brown | T1 | HF Transistor BFW 92 |
| R5 | Resistor 47K Ω - Yellow, Violet, Orange | T2 | HF Transistor BFW 92 |
| R6 | Resistor 1K Ω - Brown, Black, Red | L1 | Coil of 0.8 mm wire - 1-1 / 2 turns - 5cm |
| R7 | Resistor 10 Ω - Brown, Black, Black | L2 | Coil of 0.8 mm wire - 1-1 / 2 turns - 5cm |
| R8 | Resistor 10 Ω - Brown, Black, Black | M1 | Nut M 3 and cylinder screw 3 x 8 |
| The 4th color ring of the resistance can be gold or silver. |
M2 | Nut M 3 and cylinder screw 3 x 8 | |
| C1 | Ceramic Disk Capacitor 1 nF | M3 | Nut M 3 and cylinder screw 3 x 8 |
| C2 | Ceramic Disk Capacitor 100 pF | M4 | Nut M 3 and cylinder screw 3 x 8 |
| C3 | Ceramic Disk Capacitor 120 pF | SCH1 | metal shell |
| C4 | Ceramic Disk Capacitor 1 nF | SCH2 | metal shell |
| C5 | Ceramic Disk Capacitor 1 nF | 4 | Solder pins for holes 1, 2, 3 and 4. |
| C6 | Ceramic Disk Capacitor 2.2 nF | The solder pins 3 and 4 are inserted from the underside of the circuit board (copper side). | |
Installation:
Coaxial cables of 60 or 75 ohms are soldered to the connecting pins 3 = ON and 4 = OFF, which you inserted from the copper conductor side of the printed circuit board. The shielding braid of these two cables is pulled backwards over the insulation and screwed tightly against the guide plate from below with the clamps, screws and nuts. Before this, the bare copper point below the inscriptions "AUS" and "EIN" is lightly tinned so that you get an immigration-free ground connection with the shield.
The coaxial cable - point 3 = ON comes from your antenna system and the coaxial cable - point 4 = OFF leads to your reception device. If your receiving device has an input with 240 ohms and your antenna also works with 240 ohms, you have to connect a balun and an antenna splitter between them.
A DC voltage of 6 to 12 volts is applied to the connection pins 1 plus and 2 minus. You can use our power supply kit nt 016 for this. It is advisable not to interfere with one or the other device either, it is advisable to install this amplifier kit in one of our metal hardware houses.
Before commissioning, the POS regulations applicable in the individual countries must be observed. Your specialist dealer will inform you about this.
Housing Installation:
| Suitable housing for this kit: |
|---|
| without 9 volt battery: Type G 75 |
| with 9 volt battery: Type G 100 |
The circuit board is mounted on 5 mm high spacer rollers, which are previously glued from below against the circuit board via the 4 holes.
Winding instructions for coil L1 and coil L2:
The kit includes two pieces of bare wire with a thickness of 0.8 mm for the production of these coils. The coils have a diameter of 5 mm. You can use a "drill" with a diameter of 5 mm as the winding body. Both suplen get only 1 1/2 turns. The coil L1 is wound clockwise and the coil L2 is wound counterclockwise.
Coil L1 = right winding:
Take the 5 mm drill in your left hand and place the beginning of the bare wire under your left thumb. Then move the wire around the drill 1-1 / 2 times to the right. Above the drill there are now 2 long wires and 1 long wire underneath the drill. The connection legs of the coil point parallel downwards and so fit exactly into the grid dimension of the circuit board. Please pinch the protruding wire ends before soldering.
Coil L2 = link winding:
The same procedure is used for this coil as for coil L1, but please place the beginning of the bare wire under your left index finger. Then wrap the wire counterclockwise around the drill 1-1 / 2 times.
Both coils must be adjusted after plumbing so that the windings do not touch and are approx. 1 mm apart.
Caution! If you want to use a supply voltage higher than 12 V (max. 18 V), the coil L2 must be adjusted. Depending on the tension, the coil can be bent apart above the winds. It is advisable to use an antenna measuring device for this, so that you can achieve the maximum amplification factor.
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